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· 369 ratings · 37 reviews

Start your review of The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur

Nov 29, 2012 Maya Panika rated it it was amazing

I'm not sure what I expected from this little (and it is little, just 145 small pages and those only sketchily filled) book. Probably something closer to a laboratory journal, a history of the creation of a specific perfume, a detailed examination of the science of perfumery. What I got was something far more delicious. Perfume and perfumery are discussed at length, of course, this is a perfumer's diary, but there's little of the laboratory here. This is the collected thoughts - on nature, the c I'm not sure what I expected from this little (and it is little, just 145 small pages and those only sketchily filled) book. Probably something closer to a laboratory journal, a history of the creation of a specific perfume, a detailed examination of the science of perfumery. What I got was something far more delicious. Perfume and perfumery are discussed at length, of course, this is a perfumer's diary, but there's little of the laboratory here. This is the collected thoughts - on nature, the city, music, food, fashion, scent and perfume - of a man whose passion also happens to be his job, with a little gentle philosophy thrown in. The overall feel is that of a favourite blog; bite sized pieces of a life; a Tumblr or Pinterest without pictures. No illustrations are needed, the word-pictures are enough. It's no wonder Jean-Claude Ellena talks of `writing' or `composing' perfumes; the pictures he composes have an enchanting, dreamy quality, in pastel colours, like distant music, watercolour landscapes, clean linen, pressed flowers, dried lavender. Beautiful and quietly extraordinary. ...more

Jul 01, 2012 Sophia rated it liked it

Jean-Claude Ellena is a "nose", one of a small, talented and highly-trained group of experts who create fine fragrances. In fact, he's one of the most highly respected "noses" in the business, having designed iconic fragrances such as First for Van Cleef and Arpels, as well as many of the famous perfumes of Hermes. In The Diary of a Nose, he tells us a little of his methods, explaining the painstaking process of developing a fragance from its initial inspiration, through the laborious testing an Jean-Claude Ellena is a "nose", one of a small, talented and highly-trained group of experts who create fine fragrances. In fact, he's one of the most highly respected "noses" in the business, having designed iconic fragrances such as First for Van Cleef and Arpels, as well as many of the famous perfumes of Hermes. In The Diary of a Nose, he tells us a little of his methods, explaining the painstaking process of developing a fragance from its initial inspiration, through the laborious testing and refining process to its eventual launch to the public.

This is a short book, written in a diary format, which supposedly follows Ellena over the course of a year. In fact, it felt more like a series of very short essays or newspaper columns, as most entries focused on a particular idea or theme rather than a conventional description of the day's events. The entries were a little too short for my liking, and I would have enjoyed more development of some of these ideas.

The book seems aimed at readers who have much more than a passing interest in the subject of perfume, as there are some chemical formulae as well as a lengthy appendix explaining how to create various scents using different chemicals and essences. If somebody were considering a career in perfumery I would recommend this book wholeheartedly, and even with no knowledge of the subject at all I still found myself intrigued at how chemicals that have never been anywhere near a fruit can be mixed together to smell like a pear or strawberry.

I spent much of the book trying to get a handle on Ellena's personality from the way he writes. He's quite scant on personal information and his writing is completely humourless. There's not the merest vestige of a joke or lightness of tone to be found anywhere, and I'm afraid I built up a rather unflattering picture of a haughty Frenchman who strikes fear into the hearts of his quaking assistants. I know this is meant to be a serious work, but I would have liked to have seen a little chink of humanity.

I did find myself wandering over to my dressing table and sniffing my own collection of perfumes while reading this; trying to pay attention to all the different elements and seeing if I could detect a particular flower, herb or fruit. The book will get you thinking about fragrance and what it means to us, how it is linked to memory and how it can provoke an emotional reaction.

While perfume junkies will certainly enjoy The Diary of a Nose, the deadly serious tone and lack of depth and detail will limit its appeal. I think I would have enjoyed a more conventional autobiography more, but I'm not sure Ellena would have been up to the task. As a perfumer I'm sure he's a genius, but as an author he's a little too dry for my taste.

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Feb 05, 2013 Sps rated it liked it

In which Jean-Claude Ellena sets out to prove he is a true Frenchman, i.e. an intellectual and an aesthete, crafting works of art rather than "the icy perfections of the mere stylist" (As Mr. Charles Rennie Mackintosh would say.) He quotes Fernand Braudel on capitalism (p.45) and Charles Trenet on music (p.67) and travels the globe and namedrops and drinks tea.

He is PoMo and BoBo all at once: "When I want to evoke a smell, I use signs that--taken separately-- have no connection with the thing I'

He is PoMo and BoBo all at once: "When I want to evoke a smell, I use signs that--taken separately-- have no connection with the thing I'm expressing: there has never been any tea in Bulgari's Eau parfumée au thé vert, mango in Un jardin sur le Nil by Hermès, or flint in Terre d'Hermès, yet the public 'feels' they are there." (p.3) Comparing himself to a sculptor, winemaker, or other craftsman, he says "Where the master of wine is concerned, man adds to nature; as a perfumer, I remove myself from nature to reduce it to the level of signs." (68)

This clustering of signs around and about perfume is partly because we can't evaluate or sense a perfume without smelling it--interacting with the thing-itself--so we need representations in words, images, symbols. Ellena remarks, seemingly without irony, "marketing people understand this perfectly. Seeing advertisements has never meant being able to smell the perfume; at the very best it elicits a desire to smell it: such are the strengths and limitations of the exercise." (24)

Actually one could say this about all luxury goods. They are about desire and possession, and representations of desire and possession. One of Ellena's own perfumes, First, sort of represents all that in scent-symbol form: "Gorged on analyses of market archetypes, I collected, borrowed and conflated every signal for femininity, wealth and power into this perfume." (66)

The best thing I got from this book, however, was an idea for an experience akin to the Feast of Words nights at SOMArts: an event in which "the master of ceremonies burned ten different fragrances, one after another. For each fragrance, the participants were invited to compose a poem." (127) Now, who will humor me and actually do this?

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Mar 09, 2020 Camila Neo rated it it was amazing

Gives a perspective of what it is like to work as a perfumer. I appreciated the openness of this book, despite perfumery being an art and it gave insight to the style of this work. Also enjoyed the parts where he talks about his travels, languages and cultures of the world. You feel like you are travelling with him through the different days. An awesome read and I finished it in only two days.

Jul 20, 2017 Otone rated it liked it

"The way in which we read and perceive a book is not exactly the same today as it was yesterday, and the same can be said of perfume." A fascinating (if occasionally overly pretentious) read. As it is a diary, it can be choppy and is best read in several sittings. "The way in which we read and perceive a book is not exactly the same today as it was yesterday, and the same can be said of perfume." A fascinating (if occasionally overly pretentious) read. As it is a diary, it can be choppy and is best read in several sittings. ...more

Pleasant enough for what it is, although pretty insubstantial. This is a short series of diary entries from a perfumier who works for Hermes, in which he talks about various influences--quotidian and developmental--over his work. He gives an interesting account of the development of discernment over a lifetime; I think this will be very interesting to anyone working in an artistic field other than perfume, as he presents essentially what was to me an account of taste in a field whose very differ Pleasant enough for what it is, although pretty insubstantial. This is a short series of diary entries from a perfumier who works for Hermes, in which he talks about various influences--quotidian and developmental--over his work. He gives an interesting account of the development of discernment over a lifetime; I think this will be very interesting to anyone working in an artistic field other than perfume, as he presents essentially what was to me an account of taste in a field whose very difference defamiliarized familiar accounts of how one "reads" an artwork. Still, pretty nugatory for the most part, although a quick and satisfying read. ...more

I recently became engaged with texts on perfume, after finding 'The Emperor of Scent' by Chandler Burr, at a trains station that had wild hyacinths blooming in the parking lot. I searched out like minded books on scent, intrigued at how little I'd considered this sense of mine, and was hoping to get a deeper understanding of scent from this book.

This book is, simply, a journal by a composer of perfumes. Jean-Claude is certainly an intriguing figure, but he seems so engrossed in his own scent-wan

This book is, simply, a journal by a composer of perfumes. Jean-Claude is certainly an intriguing figure, but he seems so engrossed in his own scent-wanderings, that it's hard to bridge the gap if you're also not a super-smeller. He's not known as a writer - although it's clear from his thoughts, he's an artist. But as a non-writer, there is little sense or true cohesion or finality to this book. It does, indeed, read like a perfume would - it wafts past enticing scents of fashion, culture, food and greatness, without settling specifically on a thought. It lingers, but only slightly so. I think perfume-obsessives will love this, but the man does not extend his thoughts to those who do not understand it. He simply invites you into his mind-wanderings, which are at times interesting, but collectively, nothing to write home about. A simple, easy book that may intrigue you further down the rabbit hole of scent, but has no true lasting effect on me otherwise.

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Dec 03, 2020 Salomi rated it really liked it

As a voracious reader, I found myself drawn to books on perfumery, starting with this 175-page book written by the iconic Jean Claude Ellena, 'parfumeur exclusif' or 'le nez' for Hermès. I expected this book to help me unravel the why's and how's of the perfume creation process - a topic I find myself contemplating on, time and again.

What I got was abstract prose that wove stories through the memories and experiences of the perfumer himself. The book narrates Ellena's thoughts on what inspires h

What I got was abstract prose that wove stories through the memories and experiences of the perfumer himself. The book narrates Ellena's thoughts on what inspires him and glimpses into the disjointed nature of the creative process. Jean-Claude unpacks his process of creation through diary-style entries - meandering past the confluence of fashion, culture, travel, food and language, without elaborating on the interconnectedness of the trails of inspiration. I must admit that in spite of being a sucker of the abstract style of writing, this book has left me wanting to read a less eloquent and more personable account of a perfumer.

That aside, this is an easy book - one that may take you further down the rabbit hole of our olfactive senses! I find it to be a great introduction for newbies like myself, who want to find their way in this space, but, struggle to find their bearings within the expansive landscape that is the art and alchemy of perfumery.

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Good. A bit more philosophical than I expected. There's formulas at the end of the book, for those who are interested. Picked this up, mostly, because I am fascinated by the Hermès "Un Jardin..." series (I own all of them). An interesting look at the life of a parfumeur. I guess, in that regard, the book does exactly as the title implies. Still tho, feels like there is something missing... (Not sure what yet tho). I guess, maybe, I wanted to know more about the actual process and thinking behind Good. A bit more philosophical than I expected. There's formulas at the end of the book, for those who are interested. Picked this up, mostly, because I am fascinated by the Hermès "Un Jardin..." series (I own all of them). An interesting look at the life of a parfumeur. I guess, in that regard, the book does exactly as the title implies. Still tho, feels like there is something missing... (Not sure what yet tho). I guess, maybe, I wanted to know more about the actual process and thinking behind each fragrance (and there's a bit of that). But then, also, there's a ton of meetings with people, traveling to different countries and towns and just, musings about daily life. Ellena is French after all... Not bad. Not great. Just, good. ...more

Aug 22, 2018 Gil Segev rated it really liked it

Jean-Claude is a professional perfumer, but he is almost as much a poet. He writes beautifully about creativity, craftsmanship, curiosity, and of course topics related to perfumery like the nature-synthetic debate, quality and market trends. This book reads like a diary, each entry a snippet into his though process. Fans of Hermes or of perfumery as an art will appreciate this.

Fast, easy, and fragrant read for perfume lovers. More than a diary of perfume concoctions: rather, random bits and pieces of thoughts and opinions from a man who is lucky and talented enough to be living his passion. Enjoyed!

Feb 09, 2019 Ankit rated it it was amazing

A must read for students and admirers of perfumery. J.C.E is one of the most creative and sought after perfumers in the world. His perfumes are pieces of art. In this book he lets us into is everyday life, and the way he sees the world.

While there are some gorgeous tiny details, I couldn't get sucked in. Pity because it's a short one.

Really interesting little read if you're interested in perfumery and Ellena in particular. Really interesting little read if you're interested in perfumery and Ellena in particular. ...more

Great for vocabulary learning

A fun little read if you're interested in appreciating the beauty of scent and how a parfumeur thinks about smell. I've always been fascinated by perfume and enjoyed the written poetic expression. A fun little read if you're interested in appreciating the beauty of scent and how a parfumeur thinks about smell. I've always been fascinated by perfume and enjoyed the written poetic expression. ...more

May 21, 2021 Quinn rated it liked it

"I sometimes even wrote my notes out again, going to some effort, believing they were important; but they only have whatever value I give them, and that can vary." "I sometimes even wrote my notes out again, going to some effort, believing they were important; but they only have whatever value I give them, and that can vary." ...more

Oct 08, 2014 ^ rated it liked it

In my life I have, to date, fallen in love at different times with a mere two lovely eau-de-parfums. One, launched in 1977, was inspired by the Orient. The second is a floral/fresh first marketed 1978. Since then I've never felt any necessity whatsoever to wear any other. So I was intrigued when this book, "The Diary of a Nose" turned up in a charity (thrift) shop. I simply had to buy it (and at such a reasonable price, too)..

Having read other reviews of this book on Goodreads, I opted to ignore

Having read other reviews of this book on Goodreads, I opted to ignore the book's diary-structure, and instead treat it simply as a series of episodes in the life of the master perfumier Jean-Claude Ellena, who likes Italo Calvino's definition of a classic book: "A classic is a book that has never finished saying what it has to say" (at https://www.goodreads.com/quotes/sear...). It's hardly difficult to spot the applicability to perfume. Very arty.

J-C E appends names, not numbers to his formulations in progress. Yet his mind works differently when, later on in his book, he outlines (giving little away) how his memory internalises and classifies primary scents. I'm different. I've always found it easier to use alphanumeric codes to clarify relationships between formulations at a glance. He also uses 'moleskin' notebooks; which, having trouble visualising pegged-out talc-rubbed drying pelts of moles (of the family Talpidae,) I take to mean the products of the American company Moleskine

That as the character of a wine should communicate the character and personality of its maker, J-C E claims so should a perfume. Neither, I conjectured, would such a tactic risk harming the marketability of its 'creator'! Alchemists have recognised for centuries the significant value that can be added by product positioning supplemented by lashings of imagination. Later on he recounts a very enjoyable dinner party in Gembloux, near Lièrge; where the guests are given noteboooks and pencils to record their impressions of what they will be eating. He refuses to play along with this; claiming that he cannot simultaneously "live intensely; and make notes about my feelings at the same time." (p.96). I cheered for him at that point, before carrying on to read his interesting description of the menu; which anyone who regularly entertains will find both thoughtful and helpful.

The odd proof-reader's error greatly amused me. On page 73, J-C E writes, "I have just spotted sweat peas in every colour." I was immediately reminded of the highly successful BBC sit-com 'Allo Allo, (1982-1992), set in France during WW2, where the abominable French-speaking gendarme is really a British undercover officer (Crabtree), in permanent disguise.

The interacting sum of parts creates and defines a perfume, whether bought and worn to attract or to disguise. Likewise it is the sum of parts that defines this book, whether bought to read or to give as a present together with a phial of eau de parfum. I certainly enjoyed these pages all the more whilst wearing perfume, rather than unperfumed straight after a bath.

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As I mentioned in my review of his previous book, Ellena is genius perfumer and is really a celebrity in the perfume world. Though I didn't like his previous book and found it tedious, I was still very excited to read this, since it was entries from his diary over a year's time.

Overall, I was very pleased with this book. It managed to keep the spirit of the first book but was what I really wanted from the first book without all the boring details. I do have a few criticisms. It's a short book, and it really only about a third of the year in entries, not the whole year. I don't necessarily mind that it's short, but it bothered me some in conjunction with my next problem with it: Ellena tends to ramble a lot, and some entries are either not related to perfumery or are only loosely related. So when you notice that the entries were selective, you start to ask why didn't other days replace these entries? Now it could be the fault of the editor, or maybe Ellena himself didn't write entries every day, but I just found some entries to be pointless. Also, I think that Ellena tries too hard at being philosophical. It works on occasion, but most of the time it's too forced. Also, there's not really a thread to tie in the whole book, or a poignant ending, so reading this all at once (like I did) probably isn't the best way to read it. Perhaps it's best if savored little by little.

But mostly I really enjoyed the book. I found that I really liked hearing about his experience as a perfumer and his day-to-day routine. I loved how he explained some of the secrets to his creations, and I loved how he has a section at the end of the book listing ingredients that can make common accords (even though it would still take trial and error to figure out the proportions). I really enjoyed the entries about his camaraderie with Edmond Roudnitska (another iconic perfumer from a generation prior). At times I found this book informative, beautiful, poetic, and philosophical. But mostly I just like this book because it tickles my nosiness about the life of an uber-popular perfumer that I really admire. For those who love fragrances--particularly Ellena's--you will want this book.

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This is the diary of an artisan-artist who imposes ascetic limitations on himself, after decades of study and experimentation. What separates him from more familiar types of artisans and artists is his luxury medium: scent. His knowledge of odors and their origins is akin to an accredited sommelier's ability to discern a wine's place and time of origin through infinitely subtle tastes. Unlike the sommelier, the perfumer proceeds to create something new by referring to an incredible memory of the This is the diary of an artisan-artist who imposes ascetic limitations on himself, after decades of study and experimentation. What separates him from more familiar types of artisans and artists is his luxury medium: scent. His knowledge of odors and their origins is akin to an accredited sommelier's ability to discern a wine's place and time of origin through infinitely subtle tastes. Unlike the sommelier, the perfumer proceeds to create something new by referring to an incredible memory of the finest gradations and correspondences.

Ellena is a perfumer (or "nose," in industry speak), famous in the art-chemistry realm that is perfumery for fragrances that are light, fresh, and evocative of nature. For example, Ellena's "Un Jardin en Méditeranée" for Hermès seems to conjure a soft breeze of tomato leaves, freshly tilled soil, salt water, and orange and olive trees. He's quick to note that though he is inspired by reality, whether in situ or in memory, he absolutely loves working with artificial ingredients in order to perfectly replicate the referents.

I was especially delighted by his inclusion of recipes, listed in the postface, such as this one for the perfect evocation of a lily:
benzyl salicylate
phenyl ethyl alcohol
methyl anthranilate
Depending on botanical varieties, you can add linalool, indole or geraniol.

Ellena has thousands of raw ingredients in the recesses of his laboratory, mainly essences (distillations using hot water vapor), absolutes (made with dried vegetation), and extractions (made through low-temperature carbon dioxide). But he chooses between a select group of 200 components when making a fragrance. A critic (Luca Turin) likened his euphoric self-limitation to anorexia, but he's laughing all the way to the bank: his unusual scents are sold in pretty much every mall in the world.

Though poorly edited in this translation, it would make a nice gift pairing with a bottle of Hermès cologne.

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It is one of these books that you do not want to rush when reading it.. Like a meditation book it brings reflections and insights about what marketing is and what branding is ... Jean Claude Ellena is authentic; the real thing...he explains his love and passion for perfumes as he expresses the process from thought to market; the art of creation. His thoughts are interconnected and his inspirations are coming from the earth, the wind, the fire. he is totally in touch with reality, the present and It is one of these books that you do not want to rush when reading it.. Like a meditation book it brings reflections and insights about what marketing is and what branding is ... Jean Claude Ellena is authentic; the real thing...he explains his love and passion for perfumes as he expresses the process from thought to market; the art of creation. His thoughts are interconnected and his inspirations are coming from the earth, the wind, the fire. he is totally in touch with reality, the present and the past.. Reading the diary of a nose you are suddenly transposed in "la douceur de vivre" in the arrière pays. This book is the gate to sensory marketing.. Understand his book and you will understand brands like Channel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent and the beliefs and attitudes of people who only want to create the best with the best material using the best processes...
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Dec 07, 2013 K. rated it really liked it

"The dream perfume is one that can be smelled and experienced in the moment, for the time of one inhalation, but not one to be worn. It is not an ornament, or an item of clothing, nor is it a protection. It is pure emotion. This concept might be confusing because imagining a perfume in this way takes us outside its usual codes. I dream up perfume as a poetic offering, a 'sudden ravishing delight of unpredictability' . . ." "The dream perfume is one that can be smelled and experienced in the moment, for the time of one inhalation, but not one to be worn. It is not an ornament, or an item of clothing, nor is it a protection. It is pure emotion. This concept might be confusing because imagining a perfume in this way takes us outside its usual codes. I dream up perfume as a poetic offering, a 'sudden ravishing delight of unpredictability' . . ." ...more

Jan 07, 2013 Evelina rated it it was amazing

It was, as could be expected, a very poetic, elegant, immensely inspirational book by one of my favorite perfumers. What I didn't expect from it was how subtly J. C. Ellena was seducing his readers throughout the book: to smell, to live, to think, to love just a touch more deeply.
It is a breathtaking book that I will be keeping near me at all times. It was, as could be expected, a very poetic, elegant, immensely inspirational book by one of my favorite perfumers. What I didn't expect from it was how subtly J. C. Ellena was seducing his readers throughout the book: to smell, to live, to think, to love just a touch more deeply.
It is a breathtaking book that I will be keeping near me at all times. ...more

Dec 31, 2013 nathan rated it liked it

The Diary of a Nose (2013) by Jean-Claude Ellena is a collection of a fine parfumer who worked on one of my mother's favorite cologne's, Declaration by Cartier. He gives interesting ideas, thoughts, and his understanding of the world through smell. At times it feels he sits high and mighty, but there's a sincerity and eloquence to him that allows you to trust him.

- somewhat interesting but mostly along the lines of stream of consciousness
- no proper cohesion
- a bit of insight regarding perfume process but mostly just wishy washy thoughts
- writing was quite poetic at times

A meditation on being a parfumeur. Unlinked entries in diary form of what Jean-Claude considers his view of making perfumes and his influences and aesthetic to be. Interesting, thought-provoking, but not big on plot... or linearity...

Aug 05, 2019 Amaya rated it liked it

Sweet, loving, perceptive, and more beautiful if read in French. This book' foreign intuition is contageous and delightful. I'm a very visual, tactile and spatial person as an Industrial Designer, and it still hit home like a good chef does when they talk about their art as well. Sweet, loving, perceptive, and more beautiful if read in French. This book' foreign intuition is contageous and delightful. I'm a very visual, tactile and spatial person as an Industrial Designer, and it still hit home like a good chef does when they talk about their art as well. ...more

Given his long history with perfume, I would have expected more...insight and philosophies behind creating some of the world's most famous perfumes. Given his long history with perfume, I would have expected more...insight and philosophies behind creating some of the world's most famous perfumes. ...more

Aug 03, 2013 Mattie Egerter rated it really liked it

It was a good read, but nothing spectacular. I got very bored reading it after a while, but I do have some nice/memorable quotes from it about smells and sensations due to smells.

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"Pleasures, small pleasures: I like the pleasures we pilfer from everyday life, they brighten the day. They are mundane, they feel repetitive, they reassure. If we overlook them we deprive ourselves of the joys that make life bearable." — 0 likes

"Perfumery companies were becoming international and shifting from perfumery that had something to offer, to one that responded to demand; this globalized tastes. The rare few innovations likely to give the French market leaders something to think about came from the United States. They included the introduction of the smell of cleanliness, as well as the smell of prudishness, thanks to the widespread use of vaporizers, which were in some senses a natural consequence of prudery (a gesture made far away from the body, gadgetry substituted for the erotic)." — 0 likes

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